Rebecca's Real Estate Blog

Preparing For Winter

2011-10-28T13:55:00.000-05:00

Summer has definitely left us! We have had cold rainy days for over two weeks now and they are calling for a chance of flurries tomorrow! That's why I thought this would be a good time to share the following information. It's fall and that means it's time to get your home ready for the upcoming cold weather. Check out the tips below for ideas on how to keep your home more comfortable and efficient this winter.

Seal Drafts - Seal holes, cracks, and openings in your home to stop the flow of heat through the walls and ceiling. Replace worn weather stripping and those worn out door threshold sweeps. Caulk the exterior doors and window frames to reduce drafts and water penetration.

Keep Your Pipes Pumping - Pay less for hot water by insulating pipes. This will also decrease the chance of pipes freezing especially if plumbing runs along and outside wall or in a crawl space.

Clean Those Gutters - Once the leaves fall, remove them and other debris from your home's gutters so that rain, melting snow, and ice can drain properly. Install downspout extensions to water drains away from the foundation. Install window well covers to keep leaves and snow out and reduce leaks.

Roof Tune Up.- Secure curled shingles with roofing cement, caulk the flashings at the chimney and step wall. There are reputable companies that will clean the gutters and do a roof tune up.

Turn off and drain the exterior hoses. - Turn off the hose valve in the basement, open the small drain on the valve to drain the water. Open the exterior valve and remove the hose.

Furnace Care - A simple way to keep your home warm while cutting down on energy waste is by replacing your furnace filters or cleaning them as needed. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. Gas and oil furnaces and fireplaces require annual cleaning and inspection by a qualified contractor.

Insulate - One of the most effective ways to keep a home warm is to install adequate insulation. This is especially true in attics and crawlspaces. Insulation helps keep the home cool in summer and warm in winter. There is some government funding available until March 2012 for upgrading obsolete furnaces, windows and adding insulation.

Check the exterior grading. - It is a long winter and lots of snow is anticipated. Make sure the grading is sloped to drain water away from the foundation and basement windows. If there a lot of snow built up and a quick thaw or rain occurs. Good grading could save you from water penetration into the basement.

Install Smoke and Carbon Monoxide detectors. These can literally save your families life.

This wonderful information was provided by:

David Wall, B.Sc.
david.wall@pillartopost.com

www.pillartopost.com

Welcome To 966 Inverhouse Dr., Unit 410, Mississauga ON, W2084696

2011-04-19T16:53:00.000-05:00

Welcome to 14 Stephens Gulch Dr., Bowmanville, Ontario

2011-04-14T12:08:00.000-05:00

Welcome to 22-26 Brock St. W., Uxbridge, Ontario

2011-04-14T12:06:00.000-05:00

10 Ways To Get The Most Out Of Your Basement

2011-03-09T14:48:00.001-06:00

I was recently contacted by Ann Douglas of Doorfly.com who posted the article below. She thought my readers would enjoy the article and I fully agree. Feel free to visit their blog at :http://blog.doorfly.com . Thanks! Rebecca

10 Ways to Get the Most Out of Your Basement

If your home is built on a full basement, then it makes sense to make the most out of that space. Most people don’t think of it this way, but your basement foundation is actually one of the most expensive portions of your house. That, in itself, should be reason to give it a little more priority than simply seeing it as additional storage space.

Plan ahead: Too often, the basement area is neglected when designing a home. Plenty of attention is given to the upper floors with little or no thought given to the basement area. To get the most out of your basement, some thought must be put into how you intend to use the space and then design it accordingly
Floor plan: Many homes have a lot of wasted space in their basements simply due to inadequate floor plans. Taking some time to determine natural traffic flows in the space can be important when drawing up a plan for division of the basement area into rooms.
Ceiling: Many basements have ceiling heights less than eight feet. Designing your home with a full eight foot ceiling height can make the basement rooms feel much bigger and more comfortable for taller individuals.
Mechanical area: Generally your mechanical center for your home is located in your basement. This includes items like water heaters, electrical panels and furnaces. Keeping all these in one location where they do not interfere with the practical use of the rest of the basement space can make a big difference in your floor plan.
Stairs: If you have a basement, then you will have stairs that provide access to that space. The width and landing space for those stairs may be more important than you initially realize. How difficult it is to bring appliances and furniture into your basement area will be determined by the ability of those pieces to negotiate their way down those stairs and out into the basement area.
Windows: In order to have a bedroom area in your basement, most building codes require that you have at least one egress window located in the bedroom area. Also, the more natural light you can get into the basement area, the more livable the entire space will feel.
Wall finishes: The bare concrete block walls of many basements are a visual reminder that you are in a basement room. Furring out the block with stripping and finishing the walls with sheetrock or paneling can make the basement rooms much more inviting.
Flooring: Concrete floors can be cold, as well as hard. Installing carpet with a good padding underneath it can provide warm and comfortable floors for your feet to walk on. Again, you have taken away the basement feel by covering the concrete.
Humidity control: Dampness is another common association with basements. To keep the humidity under control in the basement area, a dehumidifier can be a wise purchase. This inexpensive appliance will pull the extra moisture out of the air and help prevent any musty odors from developing.
Bathroom: In order to make your basement a truly liveable space, a bathroom should be made a part of your floor plan. Having to climb the stairs to use the bathroom is not only inconvenient but also is a negative selling point when it comes time for you to list your home for sale.

As you read through the list, you may have recognized a common thread. That thread was the need to make your basement a welcoming and functional living space, as much so as the rest of your house. If you approach your basement space with this attitude, you will find yourself creating a basement that is used just as much as the rest of the house.

Please visit the link below to see this article and many other useful articles. Thanks go to Doorfly.com for allowing me to publish this article to my blog! Cheers!

http://blog.doorfly.com/

Hwy 407 RAMP it up! Campain

2011-02-10T13:34:00.000-06:00

MEDIA RELEASE

The Corporation of the City of Oshawa

For Immediate Release

February 7, 2011

If you have been waiting for the 407 to be extended to Hwy 35/115, now is the time to speak up! Please read the press release below and have your vote heard!

Hwy 407 RAMP it up! campaign continues to drive forward

Oshawa Mayor’s road tour takes him to Markham on Tuesday, February 8

OSHAWA – The City of Oshawa’s RAMP it up! Hwy 407 East Extension campaign continues to drive forward.

Week three begins with Oshawa Mayor John Henry visiting the Town of Markham on Tuesday, February 8 to ask municipal Council to support the expedited construction of the Hwy 407 East in one continuous phase from Brock Road in Pickering to Hwy 35/115.

The campaign calls for residents and businesses across southern Ontario to join the City of Oshawa, Durham Region, Peterborough and Kawartha Lakes in urging the province to honour its commitment – as originally promised and planned – for the benefit of southern Ontario.

Community members can show their support by adding their names to an online petition (www.oshawa.ca/407) or by completing a postage-paid petition postcard. Postcards are available at businesses and municipal buildings across Oshawa, as well as in southern Ontario communities that Mayor Henry is visiting during the road tour campaign. The City of Oshawa is gathering all petition postcards for delivery to Queen’s Park in March 2011.

Since the RAMP it up! launch on January 24:

• Nearly 750 names have been added to the online petition at www.oshawa.ca/407;

• 50,000 postage-paid postcards are being distributed to communities across Ontario;

• over 50 municipal/regional governments (Durham Region Municipalities, GTA Regions and GTAH Municipalities) have received a campaign toolkit; and,

• 106 Ontario MPs and 107 Ontario MPPs have been emailed, asking for their written support.

Public and political pressure surrounding the Hwy 407 East Extension project has been building since the province unexpectedly announced it would build the extension in two phases – contrary to years of preparation, study and promises for a one-phase extension from Brock Road in Pickering through to Hwy 35/115. Currently, the province plans to stop Hwy 407 at Simcoe Street in Oshawa using a two-phased approach, which will ultimately mean higher costs for all provincial taxpayers. In addition, it will cost the residents of Durham Region and the City of Oshawa approximately $329 million in unplanned capital road work plus ongoing maintenance costs.

For more information, visit www.oshawa.ca/407 or follow the campaign on twitter @oshawacity.

What Are Ice Dams?

2011-02-04T14:12:00.000-06:00

As the name would suggest, an ice dam is a dam of ice that has formed along the lower edge of the roof line or inside the gutters. This dam prevents the water caused by the melting snow on the roof from traveling to the gutters and downspouts. When the water hits the ice dam it refreezes to form even more ice. These dams can be quite a concern to the home owner because sometimes the water backing up behind the dam can actually leak into the house damaging walls, ceilings, insulation and other areas!

Ice damming generally occurs when there is significant accumulation of snow on the roof. If the attic temp. is above freezing often due to inadequate insulation, venting or heat leakage from the house, it will warm the roof sheathing which in turn melts the snow on the shingles. When the water reaches the roof edge which is not warmed by the attic and is below freezing temperature, it will freeze, which begins the ice dam.

The next time you take a walk through your neighbourhood, take a look at the roofs. The homes with a full roof of snow are probably well insulated and properly vented. If you see a home that has vertical sections of visible roof chances are it is not vented and insulated properly allowing the heat from the house to warm the roof between each of the ceiling rafters which melts the snow creating an ice dam.

You can see the bare roof area in this picture. It seems as though there
is significant heat loss around the chimney area which has melted the snow creating the icicles.

The best way to protect your home from ice dams is to seal all attic air leaks and increase the ceiling/roof insulation to reduce the heat loss. It is recommended that the insulation should have an R-Value of at least 30.

I want you to sell my house

2011-01-26T17:11:00.001-06:00

This is pretty funny although dealing with potential clients like this bear..... is NOT so funny. Hope you enjoy the humour!

Changes To Canadian Mtg Rules

2011-01-20T14:47:00.000-06:00

On January 17, Finance Minister Jim Flaherty brought down the hammer in a pre-emptive strike of sorts as a result of the increasing concern over the growing Canadian household debt and attempting to support long-term stability in the housing market. Flaherty said at a news conference: “"The main reason we're taking the action is for the longer term, that we avoid even the beginning of the development of the kinds of issues in some other countries that have been very damaging to families.”

As of the 17'th there are three new changes to the rules for government insured (default insured) mortgages.

The three changes to default insured mortgages are as follows:

Lowering the maximum amount consumers can borrow when refinancing their mortgages
This change will lower the maximum mortgage amount to 85% of the appraised value of the property from the current 90%. This change will help to promote savings in homeownership and ensure that homeowners don’t become overextended by using all the equity they have built up in their home when refinancing.(effective March, 2011)
Reducing the maximum amortization period for new government insured (default insured) mortgages. The maximum amortization for all new default insured mortgages will be reduced from 35 years to 30 years. This change will help reduce the total borrowing costs for the consumer. (effective March, 2011)
The federal government will be withdrawing its' support of Home Equity Lines of Credit, (HELOC). (effective April 18, 2011)

This is the second change to mortgage lending rules in the last two years- showing an aggressive stance from the government not to leave household debt to chance. There is speculation that interest rate hikes are in the future, and the government is acting on concerns over what higher interest rates could mean for Canadians in terms of managing their own debt load, especially as debt levels are currently growing beyond incomes.

HST And The Resale Housing Market

2010-11-18T14:45:00.000-06:00

It has recently been brought to my attention that there is still considerable confusion as to Ontario's new HST and what it applies to. I found the results of a recent Ipsos Reid survey regarding HST and the resale housing market to be very surprising. I wanted to share this information with you in an attempt to help rectify this situation.

The introduction of the Harmonized Sales Tax in both Ontario and British Columbia on July 1st 2010 has been widely cited by real estate professionals and analysts as one of the major factors affecting a slowdown in housing sales.
This theory seems to be supported by a recent survey commissioned by the Ontario Real Estate Association (OREA) and conducted by Ipsos Reid, which shows that 56% of people in Ontario believe that the new HST applies to the cost of resale homes.

“Clearly, Ontarians still don’t know what the HST covers and what is exempt,” said OREA president Dorothy Mason. “This is not helping the housing market, and it’s not helping the Ontario economy. This confusion means that many buyers think the cost of a resale home is tens of thousands of dollars higher than it actually is.”
With the average resale home price sitting at $333,000 in Ontario, this means that many would expect to pay an additional $40,000 in sales tax if they bought a home at that value. The reality is that there is no HST collected on the full purchase price of a resale home. In fact the HST is only levied on the various transaction fees associated with the purchase of a home that has been previously occupied (i.e. not a newly-built home).

So the good news is that HST is not collected on the sale price of your resale (previously owned) home. The bad news is HST is now charged on real estate commissions and legal costs charged by your real estate lawyer. I have added a link to a previous blog of mine which takes you to the Ontario Government Site that lists everything HST applicable.http://rebeccajames64.blogspot.com/2010/05/hst-in-ontario.html They even have a smartphone app. that will tell you what is HST taxable! I hope this help clear the HST confusion and brings more buyers to the real estate market.

Heart Attack?!? What To Do Until Help Arrives

2010-10-29T14:04:00.000-05:00

I know my blogs have always pertained to the home owner and real estate topics, however I received a slide show via email this week about heart attacks and I thought the information was too valuable not to share. According to an article published in N.0 240 of the Journal of General Hospital Rochester, the majority of people suffering a heart attack will be alone at the initial onset. The following information tells you what you should do until help arrives.

If you are experiencing severe pain in your chest that starts to radiate out into your jaw and into your arm, you may be experiencing a heart attack. When your heart is beating irregularly and begin to feel faint, you may only have about 10 seconds before you lose consciousness.

Until help arrives, do not panic! Start coughing vigorously and repeatedly, taking deep breaths before each cough. The cough must be deep and prolonged, just like the coughs we use clear our lungs when congested with phlegm. Repeat the breath and cough approx. every 2 seconds without let-up until paramedics are on scene or the heart appears to be beating normally.

The deep breaths get oxygen into the lungs and the coughing movements squeeze the heart and keep the blood flowing. The squeeze pressure on the heart also helps to regain normal rhythm.

Hopefully we will never have to use this, but if we do, I hope it helped save a life!

How To Rid Your PC Of Malware

2010-09-23T16:10:00.002-05:00

Is Something Hiding Inside Your Computer?

I personally have had to rid my laptop of viruses at least twice. Both times I think it took me about 2 days before I figured out what needed to be done. That's why I thought I'd share this handy article which was sent to me by : Real Estate Industry Solutions, LLC, 7025 Augusta National Drive, Orlando, FL 32822. I hope you never have to use it, but I know it will help if you do find yourself with pesky Malware.

Malware, short for 'malicious software,' often plague business PCs and cause time-sensitive work to be set aside while measures are taken to find a solution. Many times these solutions can be expensive or drastic, such as going out and buying a new computer. You may be surprised to find out that many of these can be fixed with a few well coordinated steps.

Safe Mode:

The first important step to a safe and virus-free computer is getting the computer to a safe environment state where it has the least power over your actions as a user. Safe Mode allows users to diagnose and repair problems with their computers. To enter Safe Mode, shut off the computer, and upon turning it on, tap the 'F8' key, which is located near the top of the keyboard. Continue to tap it until you receive an 'Advanced Boot' menu. This menu will have many options on how to start the PC. The options you want to consider are Safe Mode and Safe Mode with Networking. The 'with Networking' option gives your computer Internet access.

Tools of the Trade:

At this point, the wisest tools to take advantage of are those you may already have available. If you own any security software, such as Norton, McAfee, AVG, or Avast, it's best to open these tools now that you're in a safe environment. Running full scan options would be the best option to follow first. These scans can take anywhere from fifteen minutes to forty-five minutes, depending on the computer and the severity of the infection.

A very popular option, even before running your own security software's scan, is to use Malwarebyte's Anti-Malware software to run a scan of your computer in the same Safe Mode environment. If you opted for Safe Mode with networking, you can download this tool at www.malwarebytes.org. The tool does not cost anything and catches most infections that many popular paid-for products fail to find.

Overall, these steps give you back control over your own computer. If you don't have any security software, AVG and Avast both have complimentary editions for download that are well known and powerful. You can find these software suites at www.avg.com and www.avast.com.

All About Painting Your Home

2010-09-15T15:09:00.000-05:00

So You Want To Paint Your Home?

How much paint will you need for your project?

•Calculate the area of each wall (height x width)

•Subtract the area of each window and door (height x width)

•Calculate the area of the ceiling (length x width)

•Painting over very dark colours will likely require a primer coat. To improve the hiding quality, you might want to have your primer tinted to match the finish coat.

Note: As a rule of thumb, calculate 37m2 (400 sq.ft.) for each four-liter (4 gal) can of paint.

Look for the manufacture date on the container and buy the most recent. Latex paints have a shorter shelf life.

Tools

Brushes and rollers are rated for the type of paint and for the application, e.g. ceilings, trims. Good quality brushes deliver less visible brush strokes.

Preparation

Proper preparation while it is the most labour intensive; it is the most important part of the job. You’ll spend about 80% of your project time on preparation and clean up.

1.Inspect the surfaces that you are going to paint. Look for popped drywall screwheads and replace or re-screw them. Remove any poster tape, or picture hooks or anything else protruding from the walls. Patch larger holes with glass fiber mesh (tape). Use a spackling or repair compound to fill these holes. Ensure each layer is dry before adding another layer. Smooth the material as much as possible to reduce the need for sanding.

2.WEAR A MASK when sanding the patches. Use #100 or #120 grit sandpaper if using wall repair compound and #220 grit for spackling compound.

3.Damp mop the floor and vacuum the whole room. For heavily soiled or greasy areas, or rooms where there were smokers, wash the surfaces with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate.) WEAR GLOVES and EYE PROTECTION when using TSP. Rinse with clean water. Ensure all surfaces are dry before painting.

4.Vacuuming may be the only cleaning option on textured walls or ceilings.

5.Prime all new drywall or plaster. Unpainted wood can be stained, painted or urethaned.
Covering crayon marks, water stains, knot holes. All these marks will bleed through most latex paints. Sparingly, apply a stain-blocking sealer before you paint. You may need to use shellac, alkyd or polyvinyl primer. Use only on affected areas. Because these products emit an odour, ensure that you direct a fan toward an open window and ventilate the area well.

Peeling paint must be scraped and sanded before painting. It is the result of moisture under the paint or using the wrong type of paint. Identify the cause of the moisture and correct the problem before repainting.

Mold appears on painted surfaces as dark spots. They are the result of moisture. Identify the cause of the moisture and correct the problem so that it does recur. Wash with soap and water and dry it thoroughly before painting.

Painting Pointers

•After patching, sand thoroughly

•Clean the surfaces after sanding

•Take a lint brush to a new roller before using

•Use paint at full strength, to ensure the paint resists washing and wear. Thinning the paint affects its durability.

•Paint with an open window when the temperature is above 10°C (50°F)

•Use vegetable oil to remove solvent-based paint from your skin

•Seal leftover solvents in a container and take to local toxic waste centre. DO NOT POUR SOLVENTS DOWN THE DRAIN.

This information was provided by:
Key Home Inspections
Tel: (905) 851-0824
Toll Free: 1-866-559-6100

The FYI On Paint

2010-08-20T15:54:00.001-05:00

What Paint Should I Choose?

Let's look at the basics first – the type of paint is determined by its thinner or binder.

Water-based or latex paints are thinned with synthetic latex, acrylic or polyvinyl acetate. The high acrylic content gives paint a tough skin. These paints clean up easily using soap and water.

Oil-based or alkyd paints are made with polyester resins or alkyds that give a durable coat that can produce a high gloss finish. They require mineral spirits for clean up and are a less healthy choice than latex paints.

Look for paints that are labeled: solvent and volatile organic compound (VOC) free, Low VOC, No VOC. People with respiratory problems, allergies, asthma or young children, and pregnant women should avoid exposure to paints with VOCs. Reactions vary between individuals.

Is The Existing Paint Alkyd (oil) or Acrylic (latex)? Simple test kits are available but you can also test it yourself. Place a small amount of gas line antifreeze (methyl hydrate) or non acetone based nail polish remover on a pad and rub it on the painted surface. If the surface remains shiny, then the paint is alkyd (oil). If the paint is stripped, then it is acrylic (latex).

Latex on Top of Alkyd? With the proper surface preparation, you can paint latex over top of alkyd paint. Clean the surface and paint with a super adherent acrylic primer and then use regular latex for the finish coat.

The Issue of Lead Paint. In 1979, lead in interior paint was taken off the market. Paint in houses or apartments built before that date almost certainly contain some lead paint. For helpful information, see

Characteristics of Paint

Low gloss, low sheen, flat, matte, eggshell, satin and velvet paints have low levels of observable gloss or shine on the finished surface. They can be washed with care. Their surface is less durable than paints with higher gloss. These paints are commonly used on ceilings, bedrooms, dining rooms and living rooms.

Gloss, semi gloss, high gloss and enamel have a visible sheen or shine on the finished surface. They are used in areas such as kitchens and bathrooms where moisture levels are higher. They are also suitable for high traffic areas such as stairways and halls and on windows, trim and doors. This paint is durable and washable.

Sealers create a bond between the top coat and the surface to be painted.

Specially formulated paints

Masonry paints for concrete walls and floors
Ceiling Paints that do not drip
Melamine Paint for durable and washable surfaces on cabinets and shelves

This information was provided by:
Key Home Inspections
Tel: (905) 851-0824
Toll Free: 1-866-559-6100

Tips To Stay Cool

2010-07-23T16:34:00.000-05:00

I received this news letter from one of our local home inspectors David Wall. Considering the humidex reading is at about 40 degrees celcius right now, I thought it would be a good time to share this information. Most of it is pretty much common sense, but it never hurts to pass along good information.

As summer sets in, so does the increase to our energy bills because A/Cs are often turned on so we all need to find new ways to keep the house cool without wasting energy. You can save money and conserve energy by keeping your home naturally cool without using air-conditioning. Here are some helpful tips to keep your home cool during the hot season.

Let the Cool Air In - When the day cools off, open doors and windows to allow the cool air to circulate through the rooms of your home. Turn on fans to create a cross-breeze, circulating the cool night air. Keep the kitchen cabinets open all night because they can store heat in your home.

Keep Out the Heat - As the temperature climbs during the morning, close doors, and shut your blinds and curtains to block out the sun. This way you keep the cooler air in and prevent hot air from entering. Close doors quickly when entering or exiting your home.

Turn on the bathroom exhaust Fan. Warm air accumulates at the ceiling.Turning on the exhaust will remove the hot air and cooler air will move in to replace it. That switch by the thermostat that nobody knows what it does is usually linked to a b athroom exhaust fan. This works even if you have Air Conditioning.

Turn the furnace fan on- If the thermostat has a fan switch turn it on.This will move cool air from the basement throughout the home. If you have air conditioning leaving the fan on will reduce the hot and cold spots especially on the split level homes that are typically harder to heat and cool.

Insulate - One of the most effective ways to keep a home cool is to install adequate insulation. Insulation keeps the home cool in summer.

Seal Drafts - Seal holes, cracks and openings in your home to stop the flow of hot air seeping in through the walls and ceiling. Weather stripping and weatherizing your home greatly reduces the amount of cool air that escapes.

Turn off heat sources - Avoid using the stove and oven as much as possible. Instead, use the microwave to quickly heat food without raising the temperature of the kitchen, and set your dishwasher to use its non-heated drying cycle. Incandescent light bulbs also create heat - switch to compact fluorescents instead. Turn off lamps, electronics, and computers when not in use.

David Wall, B.Sc.
david.wall@pillartopost.com
http://www.pillartopost.com/oshawa
905 436 1634
pillartopost.com

HST In Ontario

2010-05-07T13:46:00.000-05:00

I am sure we all know that despite all our efforts to stop the HST from coming to Ontario, as of July 1, 2010, it will be in full force! What we do not seem to be clear on is how it will effect us financially in our day to day purchases. Instead of attempting to list everything that is either included or excluded from the HST, I thought I'd keep this blog relatively short and just give you a link I found from the Ontario Ministry of Revenue. Of all the literature I've read so far, this seems to be the most straight forward in clarifying the HST confusion. Simply go to: http://www.rev.gov.on.ca/en/taxchange/taxable.html I hope this helps!

The Dangers of Procrastination

2010-05-01T13:28:00.000-05:00

I'm sure we have all heard the time honoured phrase, "don't put off until tomorrow what you can do today"? Well let me tell you the last week has really brought this message home! I won't go into details, but I can tell you the moral of my story is.....Please do not procrastinate in getting all your financial documentation to your lender or mortgage broker.

Most offers to purchase real estate are conditional on financing. Even if you have been "pre-approved" up to a certain dollar value, the lender will either grant or deny the financing based on the appraised value of the specific property you have written the offer for. If financing is approved, we can waive the condition and the deal becomes firm. The important point to remember is that between the date of waiving financing and the Closing Date, the lender will request certain documents from you to confirm your financial standing. One example would be having to provide copies of the last two years of your Notice of Assessment from Revenue Canada.

Please submit your documents to your lender or mtg. broker as soon as you can! If the lender does not have the necessary time to review your file, your closing could be delayed or even worse.... the mortgage could be denied and this could cost you a lot of extra stress and money! Especially in this economic climate, the lenders are very careful to check all your documents and may even ask for further information if necessary. You need to make sure there will be ample time before the closing date to fulfill all your obligations.

5 Must-Ask Questions for Your Real Estate Agent

2010-04-10T15:13:00.000-05:00

I saw this article and thought it was worth re-posting on my Blog. As a real estate agent I always ask these questions on behalf of my clients; however for those of you who are not my clients.... you may want to take note of Mike's suggestions.

Mike's 5 Must-ask Questions for Your Real Estate Agent

Once you start looking at houses, you'll have lots of questions. It can seem overwhelming, but your agent can help you learn a lot about any house that's on the market. Here are the questions you need to ask your agent about any house you are seriously considering.

How old is the house?
The older the house, the more likely it will need major repairs and renos. But don't assume that all newer homes are problem-free. When a house (or a renovation) gets to be twenty or thirty years old, lots of things can start breaking down. Some new houses are not so much built as slammed together, so even when buying new, don't skip hiring a good home inspector.

How long has the vendor owned the house?If the ownership was brief, you might be looking at a "flip." Not all flips are bad, but far too often they're the worst kind of "lipstick and mascara" job. In a bad flip, a lot of cosmetic changes are made, while any mechanical and structural issues are covered up or overlooked in order to make a quick profit.

What's the sales and renovation history of the house?Your agent will be able to give you a list of recent sales. Lots of sales activity might be a sign of big problems with the house -- as each new buyer discovers he's been taken for a ride, he decides to get off that merry-go-round by selling the house and all its headaches to someone else. On the more positive side, you'll be able to see how much the previous owners paid for the house in what year. Then your agent can find out what changes or improvements were made, which will help determine if the asking price is fair.

Are there building permits or inspection reports for any work done on the house?Most renovations require building permits from local building authorities. These permits, along with the inspection reports that are made at various stages of the job, are important records of what's been done. Your agent can ask the vendor to see permits and inspection reports for structural, plumbing and electrical jobs so that you have hard evidence that the work was inspected and approved by building authorities.

Was the house ever a grow op?Believe it or not, no one is required to disclose that a home was previously used for a marijuana-grow operation -- unless you ask. If your agent doesn't know, he or she can ask the seller's agent for full disclosure. Why does this matter? Grow ops usually involve some "retrofitting," and the conditions they create -- especially very high moisture throughout the house -- can do a lot of damage to the structure.
Don't be afraid to ask these questions and more, and don't skip a thorough inspection. Your home may be the single biggest investment you'll ever make. It's your right to get the best service and the most comprehensive information available. Demand it, and don't apologize for being demanding. Educating yourself before you sign on the dotted line is worth it.

Adapted from The Holmes Inspection by Mike Holmes, published by HarperCollinsCanada ©2008 Restovate Ltd.

Wood Flooring

2010-02-20T13:25:00.000-06:00

Wood flooring tips

Wood floors come in a variety of flooring materials: Hardwood floors, Engineered / Floating floors, Laminate and Jatoba / Bamboo planks. When it comes to deciding what floor would suite your needs in the best way, you may consider what is the room would be used for; what subfloor or existing floor you have at the moment, preferable design and costs.
    Solid Hardwood floor lasts the longest, it might outlast your house since it can go through several refinishing cycles. Installation involves installation of underlayment and it also could be installed on the existing subfloor. Hardwood provides excellent design solution as it comes in many kinds of wood oak, maple and ash.
    Engineered floor provides all benefits of hardwood, it can be refinished as well but is easier to install and does not require underlayment subfloor and can be installed on any surface. Engineered hardwood flooring is made of wood, but it's not solid. Instead it is a laminated product like plywood, with a thin but tough veneer of real wood on top laminated to three to five layers of less expensive wood (or medium-density fiberboard) and bonded under pressure with strong glues.
    Laminate is completely synthetic, with a tough melamine wear coat over a kraft-paper (or medium-density fiberboard) core. The beauty of laminate flooring is that it can be made to look like any material-stone, ceramic tile, wood, and more-at a fraction of the cost of the real thing. The effect is achieved in the second layer, which contains a photographic representation of the real flooring material. It is easy to install and water resistant.
    Bamboo plank floor is an environmentally friendly material. Not only is bamboo a fast-growing and renewable crop, the companies that make bamboo flooring use binders with low emissions. Bamboo flooring is made by shredding stalks of the raw material, then pressing them together with a resin that holds the shreds in their finished shape. It can be installed as hardwood or snap-fit like floating / engineered floors.

Rebecca's Real Estate Blog: Renovating Your Basement Part 2

2010-02-12T15:52:00.000-06:00

Rebecca's Real Estate Blog: Renovating Your Basement Part 2

Renovating Your Basement Part 2

2010-02-12T15:50:00.000-06:00

Preparing the Space

Foundation walls

To prevent heat loss to the surrounding earth, most jurisdictions require exterior basement walls to be insulated for most of their height. Although builders usually place the insulation on the inside face of the foundation wall and cover it with gypsum board, it would be better to place water-resistant insulation on the exterior face where it can keep the foundation warm. If the wall is warm, the dew point, the point at which air vapour condenses as water, occurs on the exterior of the foundation wall where condensation will do no harm.
When insulating the foundation on the inside, you should expect some moisture to condense on the inside face of the foundation wall. Place a moisture barrier, such as vapour-permeable building paper, on the interior face of the foundation from exterior grade to the bottom of the wall to prevent this moisture from wetting the insulation. The top of the wall and the space between the joists should be insulated, because it is here that most of the basement heat loss occurs. Cover the warm face of the insulation with a polyethylene vapour retarder and seal with caulking where the polyethylene meets the floor, walls and ceiling, and at all laps to prevent moisture from getting into the wall. Consult the building code for your jurisdiction for your basement insulation requirements.

Floors

Dampness and cold can enter a basement floor from the ground beneath it. Building codes require an occupied basement in a new house to have a moisture barrier, such as polyethylene, beneath the slab. If you have an older house with no moisture barrier below the floor, consider placing polyethylene over the existing floor before installing the finished flooring. If space and headroom permit, you might also install water-resistant insulation, such as extruded polystyrene, beneath the finished flooring to obtain a warmer floor.

Putting the Systems in Place

Canadian houses contain mechanical and plumbing systems that contribute to our comfort and health. The National Building Code of Canada (NBCC) sets minimum standards for water and waste piping in kitchens and bathrooms and for heat and ventilation in habitable rooms. All new NBCC “Part IX” residential dwellings and small buildings that are supplied with electrical power require mechanical ventilation, to ensure a continuous and adequate fresh air supply. The ventilation capacity required of exhaust appliances for kitchens and bathrooms is set out in Section 9.32.3 of the NBCC.

Air circulation

Excessive humidity and insufficient air movement contribute to two common problems in basements: mold growth and stale air.
Once you have repaired sources of water entry, you may put in heating and air circulation to make the space comfortable. Electric baseboards supply heat, but provide no circulation. If your house has a forced-air heating system, the furnace can provide heat and air circulation to the basement. Most furnaces provide circulation by pushing heated air out of registers and pulling cooler air into return-air grilles. The supply registers should be close to the floor in all rooms to allow the room air to mix effectively and should be near cold surfaces, such as windows.
Return-air grilles should also be located near the floor in all rooms, except the furnace room, to remove the layer of cooler air that tends to collect there and ensure proper air circulation.
Providing your basement with a heating and ventilation system that equals the one in the rest of the house should improve air quality and comfort during the heating season. But what about the period when the furnace is off and there is no air movement?
Photo by: John Burrows
Figure 5 Heating plenum disguised as a lighting fixture

Mechanical ventilation

It is advisable to run the furnace fan year round, or use a furnace cycling device to circulate the air throughout the house. Because fan operation consumes energy, consider replacing a conventional furnace with one equipped with an electronically commutated motor (ECM). This will enable you to select the fan speed to suit your airflow needs and conserve energy. Opening windows usually increases humidity during the warm season, because this is the period when the outside air contains the greatest concentration of moisture. Dehumidifiers and air conditioners are more effective at drying and cooling indoor air during the non-heating months.
A heat recovery ventilator (HRV) is a valuable addition to a ventilation system, because it can exhaust stale air to the outside and replace it with fresh exterior air. The fresh air recovers heat from the exhaust air, then mixes with the house air and is heated and circulated by the furnace.
The stale air in most of our houses is exhausted by the kitchen and bathroom fans, and replaced by fresh air leaking in through cracks and openings. This results in drafts, heat loss and uncertain air quality. A properly designed and installed HRV system can correct these problems in the basement and throughout the house.
It is common for occupants to not use, or to disable noisy bathroom and kitchen fans. This leads to higher relative humidity and increased concentrations of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in the air. Rather than compromise your air circulation, consider replacing a noisy fan with a quieter model. For more information, see the About Your House fact sheet The Importance of Bathroom and Kitchen Fans.
In some jurisdictions, the fan can be connected to the light switch so that it operates when the room is in use. More information on VOCs can be obtained from Health Canada.

Renovating Your Basement

2010-02-03T14:31:00.000-06:00

This blog will be divided into 3 parts due to its length. Please check back every week.

Renovating a full-height basement can be a relatively easy and cost-effective way to add new living space to your house. But is your basement really a good candidate for a renovation?
If your basement isn’t high, dry and sound, you should correct these problems before starting renovations.
If you are planning a basement renovation, you should inspect your basement for possible problems.

Must you stoop to avoid bumping your head on a beam or duct?
Are there intermittent or permanent traces of moisture or mold on the floor or walls?
Is there a persistent musty odour in clothing and other objects that are stored in your basement?
Are there cracks as wide as a pencil, or that appear to widen or shrink, in the walls or floor?

If the answer to any of these questions is “yes,” you should include the costs of fixing these problems in your budget.

Photo by: John Burrows
Figure 2 Basement office

Preparing the Groundwork

Building permit

You must obtain a building permit if you intend to alter the structure of your house, increase the size of windows or exterior doors, or change the occupancy — for instance, by adding a self-contained apartment (see CMHC’s About Your House fact sheet Secondary Suites for more information).
The building permit ensures that the changes respect minimum standards of health and safety. To make a good living space, a basement should be high enough to permit ceiling fixtures or fans with space beneath for a 1.8-m (6-ft.) tall person to stand. Most municipalities require a height of 2.1 m (6.8 ft.) from finished floor to ceiling before they will issue a building permit, which is also the minimum height required by most electrical codes for a ceiling light. Some jurisdictions permit limited obstructions, such as beams and heating duct bulkheads, within this space. Ask your building official what minimum heights are required.

Moisture sources

Dampness or leaks in the walls or floor must be corrected, because a damp or wet basement isn’t a suitable living space. Moisture problems can ruin even the most expensive renovations and make your basement unlivable. Damp walls and floors result from holes or cracks in the foundation, insufficient dampproofing on the exterior face of walls, poor drainage at walls and footings and site grading that slopes towards the foundation, insufficient dampproofing on the exterior face of walls, poor drainage at walls and footings and site grading that slopes towards the foundation (see Figure 3). Wetness may also be caused by a high water table, which exerts hydrostatic pressure on the walls and floor. The following are ways to repair common sources of moisture.

Cracks

Although small cracks may be patched on the inside, large cracks and other causes of dampness are best repaired from the outside. This often means using heavy machinery to excavate around the foundation walls to the footings. Once the walls and the top of the footings are exposed, it is possible to patch small holes or cracks with water-resistant grout. If cracks are large or appear to be moving, you should hire a structural engineer to investigate and recommend repairs.

Drainage

Water can seep up through the basement floor, appear at cracks and holes and accumulate at the perimeter where the floor meets the walls. If this occurs frequently or seasonally, it may be the result of an improperly functioning foundation drain. The drainage tile or pipe around the footing may be crushed, plugged or missing, and should be repaired or replaced. The drainage tile should be perforated with holes to collect groundwater, and positioned so that its bottom is below the basement floor.
Some builders enclose the drainage tile with a geotextile “sock” to keep fine soil material from clogging the tile. The tile and sock should be covered with at least 100 mm (4 in.) of clear, crushed stone extending to a free-draining zone over the face of the foundation. A length of unobstructed pipe should slope downwards from the foundation drain to the storm sewer to carry away any water that collects around the footings.
Ensure that the foundation wall has an uninterrupted coating of bituminous dampproofing, or a waterproof membrane when there is hydrostatic pressure. The coating should extend from finished grade to the top of the footing and seal the joint between the wall and footing. Cover this with a drainage membrane or free-draining fill to provide the drainage zone mentioned above, and slope the backfill so it will carry surface water away from the foundation wall. As an added precaution, create a clay “dam” around the foundation walls just below the topsoil, to deflect surface water away from the house. Figure 3 shows a foundation drainage system.

Figure 3 Concrete foundation wall with insulated exterior face

Eavestroughs and downspouts

Eavestroughs collect water from the roof and rainwater leaders, or downspouts, and carry it to the ground. When the downspout fails to direct the water away from the foundation, or the grade doesn’t slope away from the walls, this water may leak into your basement. A simple solution is to extend the bottom section of the rainwater leader at least 1,200 mm (4 ft.) away from the foundation, and to adjust the grade around the foundation so that it slopes away from the house.

Window wells

Window wells can collect snow and water, and often contribute to dampness in basements. The base of a window well should consist of 150 – 200 mm (6 – 8 in.) of free-draining material, such as crushed stone, and must be at least 150 mm (6 in.) below the bottom of the window.
Window wells are places where snow and water will naturally collect. Install a length of drainage tile filled with crushed stone from the bottom of the well to the foundation drain, to ensure rapid removal of standing water from the well. As an added precaution, consider installing a clear plexiglass cover over the well if you don’t plan to use the window for ventilation. If the bottom of the window well is less than 1,800 mm (6 ft) above the footing, consult a geotechnical engineer about protecting the footing from frost action.

Figure 4 Window well at basement wall

Floor drains and sump pumps

Most basement floors in houses built after 1900 are sloped to a drain that, in turn, slopes to a sewer or dry well. It became common practice after about 1940 to install a ‘P’ trap in the drain, to prevent sewer gases from entering the basement.
If you intend to live in your basement, ensure there is a proper drain with a trap situated at the low point of the floor. The trap should be kept full of water to function properly and should be topped up periodically.
If there is no sanitary sewer in your vicinity, you may install a sump pit with a pump near the lowest point in the basement floor. The sump pit should be capped and sealed to prevent soil gases from entering. The pump should discharge to a dry well or to a location above ground where the water will not leak into the basement.

Backwater valves

A backwater valve is a device that automatically closes to prevent sewage in an overloaded sewer line from backing up into your basement. A properly installed backwater valve should be located to prevent sewage from coming through any fixtures in your basement, such as sinks, toilets, showers and laundry tubs. Installing a backwater valve may be expensive, but it can protect your basement renovation from serious damage, such as that which often occurs during periods of heavy rain.

Healthy Humidity Levels In Your Home

2010-01-21T14:17:00.000-06:00

How much humidity should be maintained in the house during winter?
When the outside temperature is at freezing (32° Fahrenheit or 0° Celsius) or above, indoor air should be kept at a humidity (amount of moisture in the air) of 35 percent to 40 percent. When the outside temperature decreases to 150 Fahrenheit (9° Celsius), indoor air humidity should be maintained at 30 percent. At 0° Fahrenheit (-180 Celsius), indoor air humidity may drop to about 20 percent.

To determine if the humidity in your home is adequate, place three ice cubes in a glass of water and allow them to stand for five minutes. If the room has adequate moisture in the air, then plenty of condensation—beads of water—will form on the outside of the glass. If condensation does not occur within 5 to 15 minutes, the room is too dry.

Sources: Heloise. All New Hints from Heloise

How to improve winter humidity in your home

When the cold winter winds blow outside, people indoors jack up the heat to a higher degree. While this may allay the chill seaping into the house, it also robs rooms of valuable humidity. As the air inside dries, skin, hair, and nails dry along with it, potted plants suffer, and health is affected.

How can you add humidity to a home in Winter without the use of a central humidifier appliance? There are several inexpensive and simple ways to maintain or increase moisture levels for maximum comfort. Not only can these basic methods increase humidity, they can actually help you save money by reducing problems associated with low humidity levels.

Add Humidity Indoors - Use Humidifiers

Electronic humidifiers are not only useful for babies and children with chest colds. Use either a warm or cool air humidifier in the main rooms of your house as well as the bedrooms to increase moisture content in the air. Be careful when running a humidifier. The steam vent should be pointed away from walls and furniture and the water level must be maintained properly.

Add Humidity Indoors - Water House Plants Well

Not only will your thirsty houseplants thank you for watering them more frequently in the dry indoor winter air, the moisture in the soil can help add humidity to the room as well. Plants constantly realease water vapor through their leaves, and the soil and tray under the potted plant can also be a source of evaporated humidity.

Add Humidity Indoors - Dry Laundry Indoors

While hanging out socks from a rack in the living room might not be in line with "House Beautiful" standards, it will help add humidity to a home in winter. Put pressure bars in doorways or hang shirts on hangers hooked to doorframes. Not only will you add moisture to the air, you will save on electricity costs by not running your dryer.

Add Humidity Indoors - Direct Water

To add even more humidity to your home in winter, set out shallow dishes filled with water here and there throughout the room. Especially put one wherever the hot air vents blow air. This will speed up the evaporatiion and circulate more moisture. You can also purchase a small spray bottle that creates a fine mist. Fill with clean water and spritz the air for a quick burst of humidity. You can even lightly spray curtaiins or furniture that can not be damaged by water.

Adding humidity to your home in winter will not only make the rooms more comfortable, but can help prevent painful dry skin, eyes, and nasal passages

Winter "Tune-Up"

2010-01-15T15:49:00.002-06:00

A Winter ‘tune-up’ for your home

Winter is a time of year when many of us resolve to get ourselves in trim, whether it’s joining the gym or a dance class, or perhaps buying some exercise machinery for our home. We devote a lot of attention to our cars too, putting on the snow tires, changing to winter anti-freeze, loading a bag of salt in the trunk. But what about a ‘tune-up” to get your home operating at top efficiency? While we’re snuggled in at home during the winter months, its a good time to make a few home ‘tune ups’ that could save you money while helping your home to run more efficiently.

A good place to start is by making your home more energy efficient. There are many ways to do it for very little expense. For a modest investment in the $50 range, a thermostat timer will allow you to pre-set your thermostat to turn itself down a few degrees after you go to bed each night, and turn the temperature back up before you get out of bed each morning. If you’re normally out of the house all day, you can achieve even greater savings by repeating the process when you leave your home each day.

Another simple and inexpensive way to improve energy efficiency is to wrap your water heater in insulating material to reduce heat loss. This small task can deliver savings that will really add up over the course of a year. You can also reduce heat loss by installing small pre-cut insulating pads under the cover plate of wall plugs and switches on the walls around your home’s perimeter. Dimmer switches, and the energy-efficient light bulbs will also reduce energy and save you money too.

Your home ‘tune-up’ should include a check of the fire alarms and carbon monoxide detectors throughout your home. You should be sure that you have a working smoke alarm (and that means testing the batteries at least twice a year). installed on every floor of your house. Also, clean the air filters on your furnace. You should also consider having a furnace inspection to ensure its running safely and performing at top efficiency. Again, your energy savings may even cover the cost of the inspection, and the peace of mind it delivers is priceless.

Want to know more about keeping your home running at optimum levels, and preserving its future resale value? Contact me, and let’s talk real estate.

To Negotiate or Not Negotiate Price.....That Is The Question

2010-01-07T13:01:00.002-06:00

Real Estate Matters – October, 2009

When the price is right...act quickly!

Should you always negotiate the price of a home you’re interested in? That’s a question more and more Canadian homebuyers are asking these days. While every transaction is different, some buyers may be surprised to learn that there will be times when it is appropriate -- and even desirable -- to go in at the asking price. This is where the expertise of your real estate professional really proves its worth. One of your sales representative’s most important duties is to provide you with the appropriate research to help you make sound decisions. They can tell you when a home is well priced, and whether or not there are comparable alternatives on the market. And they can also tell you if there are likely to be other offers competing with your own.

If you’ve found a great property that meets all your criteria, the asking price is attractive, and there aren’t any other comparable homes available, you may be well served to go in at the asking price. Buyers should take into consideration that negotiating the price extends the timeline when the home is still open to offers and during this time, other buyers may enter the process. Sometimes the best course of action is to go in at the asking price and bring negotiations to a swift conclusion. This is especially true in a hot market with low inventory.

But what happens if you’re interested in a home but think it’s overpriced? If everything else is right about the house, don’t just walk away...negotiate! You have nothing to lose and everything to gain by making an offer. If it’s not accepted exactly as submitted, then you are under no further obligation.

One word of caution -- be sure that you have your facts straight before you assume that a property is overpriced. Before you decide on what price to offer, your real estate representative can show you recent sales and also active listings of comparable properties, as well as advise you about local market trends and conditions. All this will help you to estimate what price range the home will likely sell for in the current market. And this same information can also help your sales representative to negotiate from a position of strength.

Want more advice on negotiating a fair price in today’s market? Contact your local real estate professional and get a better perspective.

Home Renovation Tax Credit

2009-12-05T14:34:00.000-06:00

Tax tip

Homeowners, don't miss the deadline!

Did you know…
The non-refundable Home Renovation Tax Credit (HRTC) is based on eligible expenses for work performed or goods acquired after January 27, 2009, and before February 1, 2010, in respect of an eligible dwelling, pursuant to an agreement entered into after January 27, 2009.
Canadian homeowners should be aware of the deadline to ensure they are able to claim the non-refundable tax credit of up to $1,350 for their home renovation or alteration. Eligible expenses for goods acquired during this period, even if they are installed after January 2010, will still qualify. If an eligible expense involves work performed by a contractor or a third party, and the work is not completed by the end of the eligible period, only the portion that is completed before February 1, 2010 will qualify even if a payment has been made.
In addition, there is no requirement that homeowners pay the amount in full before the deadline. For example, if you are billed by a contractor for goods acquired and work performed before the deadline and you do not pay the bill until after the deadline, your expenses would still be eligible for the HRTC provided that you met all the other requirements.
Non-refundable tax credit
It is also important to note that the HRTC is non-refundable and will reduce your federal income tax, if you have any. However, if the total of your non-refundable tax credits is more than your federal income tax, you will not receive a refund for the difference.
Supporting documentation
To qualify, the expenses you claim for the HRTC must be supported by acceptable documentation, such as agreements, invoices, and receipts, and must clearly identify the type and quantity of goods purchased or services provided, including, but not limited to, the following information, as applicable:

information that clearly identifies the vendor/contractor, their business address and the GST/HST registration number;
a description of the goods and the date when the goods were purchased;
the date when the goods were delivered (keep your delivery slip as proof) and/or when the work or services were performed;
a description of the work performed including the address where the work was performed;
the amount of the invoice;
proof of payment. Receipts or invoices must indicate paid or be accompanied by other proof of payment, such as a credit card slip or cancelled cheque; and
a statement from the co-operative housing corporation or condominium corporation (or, for civil law, a syndicate of co-owners) signed by an authorized individual identifying:
- the amounts incurred for the renovation or the alteration work;
- as a condominium owner, your portion of these expenses if the work is performed on common areas;
- information that clearly identifies the vendor/contractor, their business address and, if applicable, their GST/HST registration number; and
- a description of the work performed and the dates when the work or services were performed.

For more information on the HRTC and eligible expenditures, visit the Canada Revenue Agency Web site at cra.gc.ca/hrtc or call CRA's individual income tax enquiries service at 1-877-959-1-CRA (1-877-959-1272).

How To Clean A Woodstove

2009-11-27T11:48:00.000-06:00

Wood stoves are becoming more popular with homeowners as an economical alternative to the more conventional means of heating. A wood stove also adds aesthetic value to a home. Today's wood stoves are safer and more energy efficient than the old pot-bellied models of the past. They are nearly smokeless, produce small amounts of ash and use less firewood. Cleaning your wood stove regularly keeps it operating safely and effectively. Learn how to clean your wood stove.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

Fireplace shovel
Wire brush
Metal container or bucket with lid
Ladder
Dust mask
Gloves
Flashlight

Find your wood stove's catalytic combustor located between the fire and stovepipes. Look for any ash that may have amassed there from the burning wood.
Use a small wire brush to remove the ash. This should be done every 2 months. Remove the combustor, according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Remove ashes from the stove with a small fireplace shovel. Put them into a metal container or bucket with a tight-fitting cover. Leave the container outdoors or on a non-combustible surface overnight or until the ashes have cooled before disposing. Cooled ashes can be used on flowerbeds, gardens and compost piles.
Inspect the outside of the stovepipe and remove any surrounding debris. Scrape the sides of it with a proper fitting wire brush. Place the brush inside the pipe and move it in an up-and-down motion to get rid of any creosote that may have accumulated. Creosote is the yellow, rancid-smelling, oily matter produced when the gases emitted from the burning wood cool to less than 250 degrees F and turn to liquid.
Shine a flashlight into the pipe to be sure all the creosote has been removed. If left inside the stovepipe, creosote can catch fire. Use a fireplace shovel to get rid of any soot or creosote that may have fallen into the stove.
Clean the inside of the wood stove's window with fine steel wool once the glass is cool to the touch. If using chemical cleaners, check that the glass is dry before burning again so smoke or dirt is not ensnared in the dampness on the glass.
If you've done all this and you still don't feel like it's clean enough, call a chimney sweep.

Stop the HST!

2009-11-21T16:07:00.000-06:00

Stop the HST – Cost of buying, owning and selling a home to go up by 8%

Earlier this week, the Government of Ontario formally launched its latest assault on homeowners, purchasers and sellers with the introduction of legislation to harmonize the provincial sales tax and goods and services tax.

Homebuyers and sellers will pay 8 per cent more on legal fees, appraisals, real estate commissions, home inspection fees, and moving costs, adding about $1,500 in new taxes to the average residential real estate transaction in Ontario.

For homeowners the HST will also add hundreds of dollars in additional tax on utility bills (gas, electricity and home heating fuel), on home renovation labour, the cost of lawn upkeep or landscaping and the cost of snow removal.

Please help Ontario REALTORS® fight this tax. In less than 30 seconds you can send an email to your MPP asking them to vote against sales tax harmonization legislation, by clicking here: http://bit.ly/stopthehst

How To Safely Keep Warm Burning Wood

2009-11-06T15:24:00.000-06:00

There’s a lot to recommend about heating with wood. I’ve enjoyed wood heat over the years. Sitting by a warm fire can be very relaxing and is often the social focal point of the home during the colder months. Burning wood will also cost you a lot less money than other forms of heat and it’s much easier to install. However, there are also things you need to be aware of if you’re going to burn wood safely and cleanly.

When you heat with wood, you can’t neglect cleaning your chimney or you’ll create a fire hazard for yourself before very long. Every year, residue in the chimney and flue must be cleaned out. If you don’t want to hire someone, you can do it yourself as long as you do it thoroughly. Hardware stores have devices you can use to pull through your chimney that will scrub it. However, if you encounter blockage you can’t break through don’t use your stove until blockage been cleared.

Always burn hard woods and be sure the wood you burn isn’t green. When wood is first cut, it’s high in moisture content and it needs to age or it won’t burn. Stack it where it can dry undisturbed until it’s ready to be burned. I don’t burn any wood that’s less than a year old. Wood that isn’t sufficiently aged will be hard to light, it won’t deliver much heat value and it will tend to leave creosote behind.

What sort of stove do you own? If you want to get value out of the wood you burn, you need to use an air tight stove, preferably one that’s been EPA certified. It will use less wood than a stove that isn’t air tight and it will burn cleaner as well. When you burn less wood, you save both money and labor, so making an investment in an air tight stove will pay you back with greater value. I know that personally.

Never burn garbage in your stove or anything treated with substances that release toxins into the air. Once something has been treated with chemicals, including wood that’s been pressure-treated or painted, it should not be burned in a stove. Take it to your local dump and talk with the person there about how to dispose of it properly.

Burning wood requires more attention than other forms of heat, so it’s tempting with wood to damp down your stove so it will burn longer. However, whenever you damp down a stove you’re encouraging an incomplete burn. When wood isn’t completely burned, it smolders and leaves a sticky residue called creosote that clings to the inside of your chimney and it’s very flammable. Build up enough creosote in your chimney and you’ll have a chimney fire. To avoid this outcome, don’t damp down your stove very often or buy a store with a catalytic converter in it. Catalytic converters will protect your chimney from creosote buildup and they’ll remove particulates that pollute the air.

If you want to save money burning cord wood, buy your wood green a year ahead of when you’re going to use it. The difference in price between green and aged wood is considerable and you can save a lot of money this way

There’s a lot of talk about pellet stoves now. Wood pellets are a byproduct of saw mill waste so they don’t require cutting down fresh trees. Using pellets also takes less effort than splitting cord wood. The pellets burn hot and very efficiently. However, pellet stoves and fireplace inserts that burn pellets are a lot more expensive than a very good, air tight stove that burns cord wood.

I hope this was useful information. Please check back next week to see how to properly clean out your wood stove.

Getting Your Home Ready to Sell - Home Sweet Home Improvement

2009-10-30T15:20:00.000-05:00

Whether you are planning to add more rooms, upgrade your kitchen or want to put your home on the market, here are some essential home improvement tips to increase the value of your home.

Kitchen Makeover
The kitchen is the most popular room in the house to remodel. Most in the industry will tell you money spent upgrading a kitchen produces the highest return on investment. Hot makeover trends include adding dual sinks, cooking stations, bigger dishwashers, under-cabinet lighting, warming ovens and wine coolers. Also consider upgrading all major appliances.

Bathroom Fixer-Upper
Upgrading a bathroom is another sound choice and will often provide a significant return on investment, as large bathrooms typically top the list for those seeking a new home. Adding skylights, sunken whirlpool baths, or larger showers are other attractive selling features.

Cosmetic Touch-Ups
A paint job, new double-paned windows, or new carpeting will increase the price of a house virtually dollar-for-dollar. It is important to make sure your home standards are in-line with other houses in the neighborhood. Neutral colors and no clutter make a world of difference! It is vital to look after minor problems such as a leaky faucet or a loose cabinet to guarantee your house doesn't experience any long-term damage. As soon as you notice a problem, fix it sooner than later to help avoid a larger expense down the road.

Home Improvement Professionals For Hire
Whether you need an architect, gardener, interior designer or contractor, it is always important to do a background check prior to hiring a professional. Get references from family or friends and then interview your selection. Important qualities to look for are trust and experience, not initial price.